Spring Sewing: SHIRTS!

Wed, Apr 9 2014 10:07
Stenciled linen shirt by Leslie Gelber
I 'll always make shirts.....
every season, it is my hands-down favorite garment.
In addition to endless re-makes,  I'm always checking out new shirt patterns and revisiting some of my own. Seeing this linen version of my Nuevo Shirt Pattern #109, by Leslie Gelber has me inspired to revisit the pattern, explore some of the variations and create some new shirts. Leslie used a unique printed linen (the printed design is a flat pair of old jeans) to which she added her own twist: stenciled details and covered buttons from the same stenciled fabric. Great choice: A bold move with successful results! Leslie used my Big Hopper Stencil to accent & play into the  print.
Sleeve detail on Leslie's shirt 








Pattern Details- My basic shirt silhouette has  an asymmetric shaped collar, an inset pocket, 1-sided cuff and 2 front bodice variations. Here are several shirts I created with the Nuevo Shirt pattern. Hand-dyed silk noile and contrasting rayon give this one in pinks a more dramatic look. Button placement changes
button placement changes the look of the front
 the look of the design. For a personal look, remember to place the buttons where they most flatter your shape. I added some stenciling at the shoulder and down the sleeve center. The buttons also hold the drape in the piece, so there are some great shapes possible. The pattern is a canvas for your design ideas. Layering fabrics: One of my favorite fabric combos in the shirt below: 3 solid linen colors and textures, a printed quilting cotton and white silk organza.











I stenciled the underlayer (of quilting cotton) with the Eycalyptus Stencil and the organza outer layer with the Bugs in Flight. I cut the cotton front using the regular, flat front option (I added the a shaped edge).Next, I wrinkled the organza on top...pressing the wrinkles down for more interest. A collection of buttons became surface design as well as the closure of the shirt. The collar is one layer of printed silk organza with a thin binding from the quilting print finishing the edge. I like to add interest by changing the shape at the hem and added some extra seams too. The second front option has a unique, inset pocket design too.
Collar Design Ideas-  The pattern comes with 2 collar designs. Either end of the asymmetrical collar in the pattern can be placed on the fold, allowing for 2 different symmetrical options. You can also recut the top edge to change the shape. I layered 2 collars together on this blue stenciled shirt. After brush painting with copper...I stenciled with the Deco Bird Stencil in the turquoise to create the surface design.  I also folded the original collar and used it as a cuff instead!!!
  Remember, most limitations are in your mind.....and new design is about fresh thinking. 



Double collar with new shaped edge
Collar? Cuff?!



















Pattern Changes for more Nuevo Garments-
Here are some easy ways to create variations with your Nuevo Shirt Pattern. These pattern design ideas I've sketched out for you are available. Click here to get it: Nuevo Pattern Ideas Download.
To create a rectangular shape with the pattern, slash and add a vertical strip ( shown in pink). This shape will look great with an irregular hem.
 To create a long rectangle: The shirt can be lengthened into a 3/4 vest or coat by cutting across the bodice front and back pieces (in the lower half), and adding extra width.
Another variation would be to slash & spread, as shown, to create a flared  'A' shape  in the bodice. This process could be added just in the back or in both the front and the back. If you lengthen the shirt, the A-line could be a dress. I am making a short, shrug-style jacket with the Nuevo next!
I'd love to see the ones you create this spring! Diane

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