Wed, Mar 11 2015 05:26

Anna Hinkles Vest in wool with bias trim to finish the edges.

This is the season for transition garments....a colorful layer that keeps us warm, it can be the first dip into spring fabrics. The Ashland Vest is my design, originally in the Vest Collection Pattern. I have updated the silhouette, created a small bag option with  the pocket and scaled the pattern from XXS to 3X.  Thanks to Judy, Anna and Marta for Pattern Testing with me! Here are some of our designs to get you thinking about your new Ashland Vest combination!
Marta dragging some pewter Jacquard fabric paint on her fabrics-

Marta's lined vest pieces, sewn at the shoulders -

Marta (size xxs), used a combo of vintage linens in white & pink, to hand sew her version. A session (shown above) dragging the fabric with silver paint added a lovely patina to her pieces. The color blocking is so appealing.
Judy's Vest with felted lapels & Handstitching-

FABRIC COMBOS- This is the perfect garment for dramatic color combinations. Miles Frodes painted canvas was combined with a stretch denim for the solid panels in this vest. The orange zipper  and diagonal hand stitching is the perfect compliment to the painted texture.

Denim & Painted Canvas are accented with Bold Zipper-
Once the fabric combination is decided, look at handstitching thread options-
CONSTRUCTION-The pattern has construction options. I am partial to lining my pieces  unless it is going to be a raw edge version. The edges can also be finished with bias binding. Textured, felted and pleated fabrics can add an interesting design balance in your garment. Judy's front bands add an appealing contrast to her fabric choice. Once the individual pieces are lined, sew the shoulders together first. For the zipper closure: Insert the tops of the zipper tape into the shoulder seams. Once the vest is finished, the rest of the zipper can be machine or hand stitched in place.
Lapped side seam with handstitching-
judys side seam-

Lapping the seams- Once the pieces are sewn at the shoulders, put it on and lap the back and and fronts at the sides. The front or back can lapped in either direction, which creates a different balance to the garment. Judy went out to a larger size down the side seam. This gives her more options and she is getting a better fit by pinning the sides after the shoulders are sewn.
Morning Pages Fabric with zipper trim-
Trim in the seams- Zipper by the yard was used in the seams of this Ashland Vest version on the left.
Texturing Fabric-
Combining similar fabrics can be accented by pressing one fabric with pleats then fusing it to an iron-on interfacing. The grey pin-strip fabric was used for piping and ties on the vest back.
The pleated vest back is fused to iron on-
Handstitching- Can be used to sew the sides, and add some design lines into the solid fabric. Zippers, snaps or buttons can be used for the closures.

Bag with printed, collaged fabric-

POCKET or BAG? The pocket is a detail that repeats the shape on the vest back. It can be made as a pocket or a bag. Directions are included. Consider adding several seam allowances to the original pattern pieces to create more sizes of bag patterns.

Thinking about the Vest Front-
My next Ashland Vest is just starting on the dressform: It is the perfect pattern for a strong design element. The linen print is my Wing n' A Prayer Bird Panel combined with a dark linen. Using the dressform is a great way to start, it gives a good feel for what the garment front and back will look like.
Designing the vest back-

I hope you are enjoying the beginnings of Spring
where you are.     Diane

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